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6 de juliol de 2012
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des d’ Hongria

un bon goulash amb paprika

EL GOULASH I LA PAPRIKA

“Goulash” és el nom francès amb que se sol transcriure a Europa un plat d’ origen hongarès- gulyás- No obstant, a Hongria el gulyás- que vol dir, en magiar, pastor de vaques- sol designar una sopa (Gulyásleves), que es fa amb carn de vaca, ceba, all, pastanaga, nap, tomàquet, arrel de julivert, api, patates i, naturalment, pebrots i paprika, i a vegades pasta. Gulyás és un abreujament de gulyáshús, que vol dir “carn de pastor”

Al segle XIX, quan Hongria va iniciar el seu procés d’ alliberament del domini alemany- que havia imposat l´alemany com a llengua oficial-, es va produir- com a Catalunya, una voluntat de Renaixença, i es va reivindicar la llengua pròpia, la cultura i, naturalment, la cuina. D’ aquesta manera el gulyás va passar a ser un dels elements definitoris de la identitat nacional del poble magiar. Va passar a ser d’ un plat rural, que els pastors de la puszta (praderia) cuinaven en una gran caldera, i era menjat de forma comuna amb culleres de fusta, a un plat aristocràtic i burgès i popular també entre la població urbana. La característica perola del gulyáss té una forma més ampla de les vores, a diferència de la de peix, que te, com les olles corrent, les vores més estretes. Ambdós recipients, originàriament d’ aram formen part de la cuina masculina- pastors, pagesos, pescadors…- i en els dos casos disposen d’ una gran ansa per penjar –lo damunt el foc. Encara avui, en molts mercats hongaresos, hi podem comprar un assortiment d’ aquestes característiques olles  que, de totes maneres, s’ han adaptat a la cuina urbana. Fins i tot se’n fabriquen en miniatura com a adorn, souvenir o per poder servir als restaurants.

El goulash és un famós estofat de vedella d’ origen hongarès, perfumat abundantment  amb paprika (pebre vermell), cebes i pebrot. El nom ve de l’ hongarès, a través del francès. L´”hungarian goulash”, a tot el món identifica la cuina hongaresa- una gran cuina, que tot i ser del centre d’ Europa és molt mediterrània- . És tant característic del país com la paprika nom hongarès que internacionalment designa el pebrot i, en particular, el pebre vermell-

No obstant a Europa , excepte que hom es refereixi a una sopa, el goulashés sempre un estofat, que en hongarès és  pörkölt- també es pot fer de carn de porc-. Si aneu a Hongria, doncs, us haure d’ acostumar a conviure amb aquest guisat el gulyás-sopa, que s’ ha difós a Alemanya, Àustria, al nord d’ Itàlia,etc. A Àustria també se’ n fa una versió vegetariana, només amb patates.

La paprika, pebrot  bitxo- és un ingredient essencial de molts plats hongaresos, sopes- de carn o de peix, pollastre, lecsó (idèntic que la nostra smafaina). En contra del que creu molta gent, la paprika o pebre vermell no és coent. Al mercat se’ n pot trobar de dolça, mitjana i coent- i aquesta no és pas utilitzada en tots els plats, ni molt menys-. Els pebrots de la paprika són allargats, com els bitxos catalans o les “guindillas” espanyoles o basques. És més, hi ha uns bitoxos molt típic que són totalment dolços, i  es mengen grocs, abans de tornar-se vermells, en tota mena d’ entrants, amanides, acompayaments, de l’ esmorzar al sopar . En les meves estances a Hongria me’n regalo, ja que se’ n troben fins i to per Nadal. Són idèntics als “bitxos dolós de Girona”, que fem servir per amanir i confitar. També es troben a Mallorca (pebres rossos)  es posen al trempó o amanida d’ estiu. A Barcelona i altres contrades són completament desconeguts, i quans algun cuiner explica la recepta del trempó mallorquí hi posa pebrot normal, que és una heretgia. També els he menjat als països balcànics- Sèrbia, Croàcia, etc. És més, sembla els pebrots i bitxos es varen difondre a Turquai motl tard, ccom a ús culinair no més antigament que el segle XVIII, i el seu origen era a través de Sèrbia- d’ on vindria el lecsó- a través dels turcs: recordem que totes aquestes contrades- incloent Hongria- varen formar par de l´imperi otomà. Els turcs cultivaven els pebrots i bitxos des d’ antic, originàriament , com a Europa, com a plantes decoratives , fins i tot als patis de les cases- de fet són plantes molt fàcils de cultivar en testos, jo mateix tinc a casa unes boniques plantes de paprika que vaig portar d’ Hongria, en forma de fruit (solen ser anuals o bianuals, però alguna m´ha durat més). Es diu que els turcs castigaven amb la decapitació els hongaresos que gosessin plantar aquet “pebre turc” tan preuat, però molt més barat i fàcilment obtenible que el pebre.

 

GOULASH

Una recepta ben típica d’ Hongria, que he degustat in situ i que dec al meu amic Ferenc, que es diu igual que un famós compositor (per cert, els noms hongaresos van darrera del cognom així el compositor conegut a Occident amb el nom alemany de Franz Liszt és, en hongarès Liszt Ferenc) de Budapest, amb el qual vaig tenir el pler de compartir taula a casa seva.  El feia lleugerament picant, però això va a gustos. Unes bones copes de palinka- un aigurdent d’ albercocs, que m’ encanta-, ho feia baixar tot!.

Ingredients

800 g de carn de vedella per estofar, en cubs de 2×2 cm

llard o oli

1 ceba grossa

1 gra d’ all

carvi o comí de prat

1 cullerada ben plena de pebre vermell (paprika)

1 pebrot verd

1 tomàquet mitjà

1 copa de vi negre (o blanc)

sal

aigua

Elaboració

Peleu i ratlleu la ceba. Feu-la sofregir en una cassola amb el llard o l’ oli. Quan sigui transparent, afegiu-hi el pebre vermell i remeneu-ho bé. Afegiu-hi la carn. Afegiu-hi l’ all trinxat, sal i, si n’ hi poseu, el comí. Feu-hi donar uns tombs i afegiu-hi el vi negre, deixant-lo reduir. Tapeu la cassola i deixeu-ho coure a foc fluix fins que la carn sigui tendra (uns 45 minuts).A mitja cocció afegiu-hi el pebrot tallat a làmines i el tomàquet, sense llavors ni pela i fet a trossos. Caldrà afegir-hi una mica d’ aigua o brou, que  just ha de cobrir el guisat. Abans de servir-ho, torneu-ho a tastar de sal.

Notes

Aquest estofat es pot guarnir amb patates (afegides a la cassola o fetes al vapor), pasta (csipetke) etc. Es pot prescindir del pebrot, i posar-hi el tomàquet en puré.

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  6. No obstant a Europa , excepte que hom es refereixi a una sopa, el goulashés sempre un estofat, que en hongarès és  pörkölt- també es pot fer de carn de porc-. Si aneu a Hongria, doncs, us haure d’ acostumar a conviure amb aquest bus limos
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