BONA VIDA

Jaume Fàbrega

15 de novembre de 2009
35 comentaris

Cuina d’ avantguarda?

La cuina d’ autor ja ha acomplert el seu cicle: és l’ hora de recuperar els models tradicionals, posats al dia.
Després de la cuina d’ avantguarda: la cuina
tradicional, la cuina del producte, la cuina popular evolucionada. Cuina
adequada per deesprés de la saturació de la cuina d’ autor i per un temps de
crisi. Menús a  de 10 a 30 euros!

  1. O aprofitar la crisi per anar cap a una cuina ancestral i natural de supervivència saludable i activa.

    És a dir després de la cuïna del bollit i estafat passar a una cuina més fresca i natural del no bollit amb més fruïtes i amanides.

  2. Personalment no he tastat mai la cuina d’avantguarda, la meva butxaca no em permet segons quines hipotètiques alegries. Tampoc no em raca, si tens l’experiència de comprar i de cuinar veus que algunes cartes del món de la restauració estan en plena sintonia amb els temps que corren: quan més grossa és l’enganyifa més adeptes té. Per horari laboral dino tard, un plat únic que tira a “platillo”. Quan cuino procuro fer-ho en quantitat suficient per poder congelar un parell o tres de racions extres, la feina és la mateixa. Al vespre l’amanida, el pa amb tomàquet, la truita, el peix…Es tracta, crec, d’adaptar els plats tradicionals a les necessitats del dia a dia, reduïnt greixos per exemple. Uns “habones de Sanabria” no cal cuinar-los amb cansalada i orella, amb una micade xorís i l’os de pernil ni ha prou perquè quedin excel·lents. No se si m’explico.

  3. Ahir al suplement de El Periódico parlàven d’un cuiner brasiler (no recordo el nom, el seu restaurant era el “DOM”). L’home s’havia fet un nom amb cuina de vantguarda, però ell volia fer cuina brasilera, que considera que s’està perdent front a les estrangeres. Li van aconsellar que no ho fés. Ara fa cuina “creativa” però amb productes i sabors de Brasil, com la mandioca, etc. Noto que la “nouvelle cuisine” està ja totalment desfasada, i que la “creativa”, com la que fan els Roca a Girona o aquest altre senyor a Río, té interés (pels periodistes, la gent de carrer no podrem anar-hi mai, amb aquest preus) perquè fan conéixer els gustos locals, sense els quals, per moltes filigranes que facin, no tindrien l’èxit del que gaudeixen. Potser d’aquí poc els grans cuiners s’atreviran a fer cuina brasilera al Brasil o catalana a Catalunya sense por a perdre el prestigi si no fan esferificacions i escumes amb sifó.

    Jo on millor menjo del món és als restaurants de menú de Barcelona i als de San Sebastián, per 12€ el menú complet amb beguda com a molt.

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