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LEONARDO DA VINCI A LA CUINA
jaumefabrega | RESTAURACIÓ, HOSTELERIA, CUINERS | dissabte, 18 d'octubre de 2008 | 11:24h

Leonardo da Vinci va ser un gran cuiner, el Ferran Adrià del segle XV, i ens va deixar un gran llibre de cuina...Aquí en descobrireu els seus secrets.


LEONARDO DA VINCI, UN FERRAN ADRIÀ DEL SEGLE XV?

Leonardo da Vici va fer de cambrer, de restaurador públic i cuiner i durnat 30 anys Gran Mestre dels convits i festes a la corts dels Sforza, a Milà (?; espereu la resposta).Un dels llibres de gastronomia de més èxit, i del qual se’ n fan contínues edicions, és el de les “Notes de cuina de Leonardo da Vinci” (del qual crec que no b’ hi ha una edició catalana, seria una bona idea fer-la, comentada). És el llibre comodí emprar per gastrònoms i periodistes que volen quedar bé -i una mica cultes- sempre que parlen d’ algun aspecte històric de la gastronomia. A causa de al genial personalitat del seu autor, les coses del llibre són citades reverencialment: així sabem que l´artista del Quattrocento va inventar el tovalló, ja que abans els comensals s’ eixugaven les mans o els morros amb conill viu lligat a les potes de la cadira. A la vegada ens assabentem de receptes extremes d’ alta gastronomia, com el liró farcit, els “tritons” fregits o el púding de mosquit blanc, i fins algunes d’ origen català, com el menjar blanc. Quan vaig llegir per primera vegada aquestes Notes, no obstant, en veure que Leonardo qualificava aquest plat d’ “espanyol”, se’ n va encendre l´alarma: al seu temps, Espanya, com a regne, encara no estava inventada, i en altres documents coetanis (com el receptari de Martino de Como) el menjar blanc sempre és anomenat “alla catalana”. Passant per sobre del prestigi de l’ anotador de l´edició espanyola- Jose Carlos Capel,  vaig descobrir que l’ esmentat llibre- suposadament basat en un hipotètic “Codex Romanoff”- és apòcrif. En realitat és una obra escrita  en clau humorística per Jonathan Routh i la seva dona Shelagh. Jonathan Reginald Surdeval Routh (1927) era fill d’ un coronel de l´Exèrcit Britànic, va estudiar història a Cambridge i es va dedicar amb èxit a l´humor, a la pintura i la televisió. El llibre, que inclou extravagants artefactes de cuina ben dibuixats en un pastitx leonardesc per l´autor, com he dit, és agafat seriosament: així en un programa d’ història(no d’ humor) de TV3 anomenat “El Favorit” no vaig poder dissuadir-los de la seva falsedat  i el varen utilitzar seriosament com a informació de ocm es menjava a l´Edat Mitjana i el Renaixement.

“Em sento etristit perquè durant tot el dia he estat examinant plats de polenta. Que avorrida és la seva aparença”, diu una de les notes. I en una altra, intitulada “Conill mort”: ·Espelleu i estripeu un conill mort que a continuació colocareu  en un alt alt a fi que es rosteixi a poc a poc, i quan creieu que ja està completament mort, aspergiu-hi una mica de sal i pebre i serviu-lo amb una polenta mitjanament espessa. Nota: es poden menjar totes les parts d’ un conill mort”. Els autors no es preocupen de al versemblança: la polenta es fa amb blat de moro/panís/dacsa/boresc/blat d’ indi/maís, un ingredient procedent d’ Amèrica que encara no havia entrat a la cuina, però demostren el sentit de l´humor pel que fa al “conill mort”. Altrament, tant aquests ingredient com d’ altres del llibre, que per a nosaltres són coses normals de menjar, per als anglosaxons són tan fastigoses com la serp o la rata- que també hi apareixen-.Així, Leonardo da Vici va ser un geni- però no dels fogons, com Ferran Adrià, sinó del dibuix, de la pintura i el disseny.

 

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